A Scenic Holiday Journey

November 30, 2025, being Bonifacio Day, meant a well-deserved national holiday break and the absolute perfect excuse for a long motorcycle ride. Leaving the bustling streets of Batangas City behind, I hit the open road, taking the scenic route that passes through Cuenca, Alitagtag, Taal, and Balayan, eventually turning at the Balibago intersection towards the peninsula. My destination? The coastal town of Calatagan, where my partner lives, and the site of a maritime monument I’ve been incredibly curious about for years: the Cape Santiago Lighthouse.

Stepping Back into the 1890s

After meeting up with my partner in town, we hopped on the bike and navigated our way to Barangay Bagong Silang. Pulling up to the cliffside compound, we paid the highly affordable entrance fee of just Php 50 per person. As we walked through the gates, the sheer scale of the 15.5-meter (51-foot) red and white brick tower finally hit me. Unlike the standard square lighthouses I’ve seen in pictures, this continuous cylindrical structure was deliberately modeled to look like a European medieval castle, and seeing it up close makes you feel like you’ve stepped back into the 1890s.

The Secret in the Spanish Masonry

Before exploring the grounds, we stopped to read the heavy cast-iron historical marker installed right by the main door. It proudly reads: “PAROLA NG CAPE SANTIAGO. KILALA BILANG FARO DE CABO SANTIAGO. UNANG SINIYASAT AT IPINANUKALA NI MARGIN PERS Y PERS, 1887”. It’s mind-blowing to think that this imposing tower—the oldest working lighthouse in Batangas—has survived over 135 years of typhoons, earthquakes, and even World War II strafing. As a bit of an architecture geek, I was thrilled to tell my girlfriend the secret to its survival: the Spanish-era lime cement used to bind the bricks was mixed with local molasses and the protein from egg whites to make it incredibly durable and water-resistant.

Exploring the Keeper’s Pavilion and Grounds

We wandered over to the beautifully proportioned Hispanic-style lighthouse keeper’s pavilion. Historically used to house the principal keeper and his family, parts of this annex building now feature a small museum that gives visitors a wonderful glimpse into the site’s rich maritime history. While poking around, we learned that though safety restrictions mean you can’t always climb up, the tower features a tightly coiled 65-step cast-iron spiral staircase that leads straight to the lantern room and the overhanging observation gallery.

Adding a surprisingly modern twist to the 19th-century Spanish masonry is a full-size, decommissioned Philippine Coast Guard Search and Rescue helicopter permanently displayed right near the ravine. It creates a brilliant contrast between the old world of galleons and modern aeronautics.

A Sunset to Remember

As the afternoon sun started to dip low, casting a golden hue over the vast expanse of the Verde Island Passage and Balayan Bay, we just stood by the cliff edge taking it all in. Standing there with my partner, with the cool sea breeze rushing over the cliffside and the magnificent towering brick sentinel behind us, it felt like the brightest, most vibrant piece of history in all of Batangas. Calatagan is an amazing mix of coastal bliss and small-town charm, and if you ever find yourself riding through the province, the Faro de Cabo Santiago is an absolute must-visit.